Afghanistan Travel Guide - Overview

Once an essential part of the hippy trail, friendly, beautiful Afghanistan has sadly been destroyed by years of war and neglect.

Home to plentiful countryside and the rugged Hindu Kush mountain range, travellers came for the clear mountain air and to see attractions like the giant Buddha statues of Bamiyan.

However, the statues and many other monuments were destroyed under the catastrophic reign of the Taleban, a party of Islamic militants. After 9/11, Afghanistan was accused of harbouring Osama Bin Laden and faced a heavy bombardment from the US which destroyed much of the country's infrastructure.

With thousands of peace-keeping troops still occupying Kabul and pockets of fighting continuing in the south, it seems it will be some time before Afghanistan is restored to its former glory.

Travellers are strongly advised against all travel to Afghanistan, as the threat from terrorist or criminal violence is extremely high. There is also a widespread danger from mines and kidnap throughout the country.

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Contact Addresses

Ministry of Foreign Affairs

Malek Asghar Street, Kabul, Afghanistan
Tel: (70) 010 4173.
Website: www.mfa.gov.af

Embassy of Afghanistan in the UK

31 Princes Gate, London SW7 1QQ, UK
Tel: (020) 7589 8891/2 (consular section).
Website: www.afghanembassyuk.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1600, 0930-1330 (visa applications).

Embassy of Afghanistan in the USA

2341 Wyoming Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20008, USA
Consular Section: 2233 Wisconsin Avenue, Suite 216, NW, Washington, DC 20007, USA
Tel: (202) 483 6410 or 298 9125 (consular section).
Website: www.embassyofafghanistan.org

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Key Facts

Location

Southwest Asia; northwest part of Indian subcontinent.

Time

GMT + 4.5.

Area

652,225 sq km (251,773 sq miles).

Population

32 million (UN estimate 2007).

Population Density

46 per sq km.

Capital

Kabul. Population: 2.5 million (2006 estimate).

Geography

Afghanistan is a landlocked country, sharing its borders with Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and Tajikstan to the north, China to the northeast, Pakistan to the east and south and Iran to the west. On the eastern tip of the Iranian plateau, central Afghanistan is made up of a tangled mass of mountain chains. The Hindu Kush is the highest range, rising to more than 7,500m (24,600ft). The Bamian Valley separates the Hindu Kush from Koh-i-Baba, the central mountain range and source of the Helmand River. To the north and southwest of these mountains, alluvial plains provide fertile agricultural soil. To the northeast is Kabul, the capital. The other major cities are Jalalabad, Kandahar, Mazar-i-Sharif and Herat.

Government

Republic. Civil war since 1992.

Head of State

President Hamid Karzai since December 2001 (officially elected as president in October 2004).

Recent History

Hamid Karzai won Afghanistan's first direct presidential elections in October 2004 despite reports of voting irregularities. The president is serving a five-year term and is implementing Afghanistan's new constitution. The first parliamentary and local elections for more than 30 years were held in September 2005. Only about 55% of registered voters cast their ballots, more than 20% down on the previous year's presidential poll. Fighting continues in Afghanistan, with many regions still controlled by warlords and attacks by the Taleban are becoming more common-place.

Language

The principal languages are Pashto and Dari Persian. Some English and Russian may also be spoken.

Religion

Islamic majority with 89% Sunni Muslims, 9% Shi'ite, and Hindu and Sikh minorities.

Electricity

220 volts AC, 50Hz. Supplies may be seriously affected and powercuts frequent.

Social Conventions

Outside Kabul, Afghanistan is still very much a tribal society. Religion and traditional customs have a strong influence within the family, and there are strict male and female roles in society. It is considered insulting to show the soles of the feet. Women are advised to wear trousers or long skirts and avoid revealing clothing. Homosexuality is illegal, as is alcohol, narcotics and pork products. Handshaking is an acceptable form of greeting, though nose-rubbing and embracing are more traditional. Eye contact between men and women should be avoided.

Photography: Care should be taken when using cameras. Military installations should not be photographed.

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Passport/Visa

Passport Required?
British	Yes
Australian	Yes
Canadian	Yes
USA	Yes
Other EU	Yes
Visa Required?
British	Yes
Australian	Yes
Canadian	Yes
USA	Yes
Other EU	Yes
Return Ticket Required?
British	Yes
Australian	Yes
Canadian	Yes
USA	Yes
Other EU	Yes

Passports

Valid passport required by all nationals referred to in chart above.

Visas

Required by all except the following:
(a) travellers holding a re-entry permit issued by Afghanistan;
(b) transit passengers not leaving the airport and continuing their journey within two hours.

Note: Nationals not referred to in the chart above are advised to contact the embassy to check visa requirements (see Contact Addresses).

Types of Visa and Cost

Single-entry: £30. Double-entry: £40. Multiple-entry: £55 (up to three months); £115 (up to six months); £145 (up to one year). Enquiries should be made at the embassy for details about visiting Afghanistan.

Validity

Three or six months or one year from date of issue. Duration of stay depends on purpose of visit.

Applications to:

Consulate (or consular section at embassy); see Contact Addresses.

Working Days Required

Two to five.

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Money

Currency

Afghani (AFN) = 100 puls. Notes are in denominations of AFN1,000, 500, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. The US Dollar is also widely accepted.

Credit/Debit Cards and ATMs

Not accepted. There are several ATM's in Kabul that dispense US Dollars and Afghanis but many are located in military camps where access is limited. The Intercontinental Hotel has an ATM that accepts Visa credit and debit cards between 0830-1900 daily. It is recommended that visitors carry sufficient funds in US Dollars.

Traveller's Cheques

It is not currently recommended to take traveller's cheques to Afghanistan, since they are not widely accepted and may take up to two weeks to clear. If you must take traveller's cheques, it is advised to take them in US Dollars, Euros or Pounds Sterling denominations.

Currency Restrictions

Restrictions apply.

Banking Hours

Generally Sat-Wed 0800-1200 and 1300-1630, Thurs 0800-1330.

Exchange Rate Indicators

Date	Jul 08
£1.00=	AFN91.96
$1.00=	AFN46.31
€1.00=	AFN73.09

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Duty Free

The following goods may be imported into Afghanistan without incurring customs duty:

• A reasonable amount of tobacco products for personal use.
• Any amount of perfume.

Prohibited Imports

The import of film cameras is possible only with a licence.

Prohibited Exports

The export of antiquities, carpets, furs and camera film is prohibited without a licence.

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Public Holidays

Below are listed the Public Holidays for the January 2008-December 2009 period.

2008
19 Jan Ashura (Martyrdom of Imam Hussein).
15 Feb Liberation Day.
21 Mar Navruz (Persian New Year).
20 Mar Roze-Maulud (Birth of the Prophet).
18 Apr Liberation Day.
28 Apr Revolution Day; Loss of the Muslim Nation.
1 May Labour Day.
19 Aug National Day.
1-2 Oct Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan).
8-9 Dec Eid-al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice).

2009
7 Jan Ashura (Martyrdom of Imam Hussein).
15 Feb Liberation Day.
21 Mar Navruz (Persian New Year).
9 Mar Roze-Maulud (Birth of the Prophet).
18 Apr Liberation Day.
28 Apr Revolution Day; Loss of the Muslim Nation.
1 May Labour Day.
19 Aug National Day.
20-21 Sep Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan).
27-28 Nov Eid-al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice).

* Dates to be confirmed.

Note

Muslim festivals are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximations. During the lunar month of Ramadan that precedes Eid al-Fitr, Muslims fast during the day and feast at night and normal business patterns may be interrupted. Some disruption may continue into Eid al-Fitr itself. Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha may last up to several days, depending on the region.

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Health

Vaccinations

	Special Precautions
Diphtheria	Yes
Hepatitis A	Yes
Malaria	Sometimes
Rabies	Sometimes
Tetanus	Yes
Typhoid	Yes
Yellow Fever	No*
Inoculation regulations can change at short notice. Please take medical advice in the case of doubt. Where 'Sometimes' appears in the table above, precautions may be required, depending on the season and region visited.

* A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from travellers coming from infected areas.

Food and Drink

All water should be regarded as being potentially contaminated. Milk is unpasteurised and should be boiled. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised. Avoid dairy products which are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled.

Other Risks

Vaccinations against hepatitis B and tuberculosis are sometimes advised. Hepatitis E is present. Typhus occurs and trachoma is common. Giardiasis and other waterborne diseases are common. Diarrhoeal disease and other gastrointestinal infections are common causes of ill health, especially in hotter months. Outbreaks of meningococcal disease have been reported. Rabies is present. For those at high risk, vaccination before arrival should be considered. If you are bitten, seek medical advice without delay.

Health Care

Medical care was very limited before the 2001 conflict but now medicines are in even shorter supply and many hospitals have been damaged or destroyed. Doctors and hospitals demand immediate cash payment for most services. Medical insurance, covering emergency evacuation, is essential. International aid groups operate in some cities and villages.

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Accommodation

Hotels

In Kabul there are very few hotels that currently measure up to Western standards. A good option is the Hotel Inter-Continental. However, a number of chains are opening up in Kabul and things are looking brighter. Only basic accommodation is available elsewhere. In some rural areas there may still be hotels run by the provincial authority, but these are of a low standard. You may be able to stay at local tea houses for a small fee.

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Going Out

Food and Drink

Afghanistan has an Indian-style cuisine, based mostly on rice. Naan bread is eaten with most meals. Most modern restaurants in Kabul offer international cuisine as well as Afghan specialities.

Things to know: Afghan dishes can be very good, but spicy. Vegetarians are not well catered for in Afghanistan. Cutlery is not normally used, and food is eaten with the right hand, often using naan bread as a scoop.

National specialities:
• Pulao (steamed rice with raisins and carrots, usually served with a side dish of meat, vegetables or beans).
• Qabli pulao (A popular variant of pulao served with lamb, sometimes mistakenly called Kabuli pulao).
• Shorma (soup).
• Afghanis eat plenty of seasonal fruit, most notably melons from Mazar-e Sharif and Maimana, grapes and pomegranates from Kandahar, and oranges from Jalalabad.

National drinks:

• The most common drink is tea (chai).
• Dugh (yoghurt flavoured with rose water and salt).

Tipping: Service is normally included.

Shopping

Good buys include Turkman hats, Kandahar embroidery, Istaff pottery, local glassware from Herat, nomad jewellery, handmade carpets and rugs, Nuristani woodcarving, silkware, brass, copper and the ubiquitous rug. Note: Many craft items may only be exported under licence. Shopping hours: Generally Sat-Wed 0800-1200 and 1300-1630, Thurs 0800-1330.

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Business

• GDP: US$8.8 billion (IMF, 2007).
• Main exports: Fruit, nuts,carpets, natural gas and cotton.
• Main imports: Capital goods, food, textiles and petroleum products.
• Main trade partners: Pakistan, the EU, India, Russia, Kenya and Korea (Rep).

Economy

Twenty-four years of continuous war has completely wrecked the Afghan economy. Reconstruction of the agricultural sector, which accounted for about half of GDP, has been severely hampered by abandonment of farms and the huge number of minefields. This has led to falling food stocks and Afghanistan has had to rely on foreign aid. The lack of funding has led many farmers to rely on growing opium and selling it illegally to survive - a practice the current government is trying to end.

There have been some positive advancements in recent years: in January 2003, Afghanistan signed a trilateral trade agreement with Iran and India that designated the Iranian port of Chabahar as a major port for Afghanistan. In May 2008, Afghanistan agreed a US$2.8 billion contract with China for a project on copper extraction, which it is estimated will provide 20,000 jobs.

The GDP growth rate for 2007 was 7%, while inflation rates hover at around 13%. Unemployment figures are at 40% (2007 estimate).

Business Etiquette

Price bargaining is expected and oral agreements are honoured. Formal wear is expected and meetings should be pre-arranged.

Business is a personal thing in Afghanistan, and you should try to forge a strong relationship with your business partner. Bear in mind that prestige and honour are hugely important in Afghanistan, so never intentionally - or unintentionally - damage these.

Office hours: Generally Sat-Wed 0800-1200 and 1300-1630, Thurs 0800-1330

Business Contacts

Afghan Chamber of Commerce and Industry
Chaman-e-Huzuri, Kabul,
Tel: (2) 025 854.
Website: www.acci.org.af

Afghanistan Investment Support Agency
Opposite the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Kabul

Tel: (2) 103 404.

Website: www.aisa.org.af

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Top Things To Do

It should be noted that much of the land in Afghanistan is still mined and, therefore, trips outside urban areas are ill-advised and dangerous.

• Visit Afghanistan's capital, Kabul; Although one-third of all public buildings and approximately 40% of the houses were completely destroyed in 2001, a few conventional attractions for tourists remain. These include the Gardens of Babur and a well-presented museum, and the ancient walls of the citadel Bala Hissar. There are plans to re-open the National Gallery.
• Tour Jalalabad, the capital of the Nangarhar Province, which used to be an attractive winter resort, with many cypress trees and flowering shrubs.
• Take in the Red City (Shahr-i-Zahak), 17km (11 miles) from Bamian, and the location of the remains of another ancient citadel.

See Contact Addresses for further tourist information.

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Top Things To See

• Head to the Valley of Paghman, 90 minutes by road west of the capital, where the stark mountains await.
• To the north, Karez-i-Amir, Charikar and the Valley of Chakardara has stunning scenery.
• Marvel at the Hindu Kush, a wild and remote region consisting of two huge mountain ranges. Although travelling by car is possible, the steepness of the routes makes vehicles prone to breakdowns. For those who make the journey, the mountains, valleys and lakes provide stunning scenery.
• Visit Bamian the main town near the Hindu Kush. The second- to fifth-century Great Buddhas were destroyed here to international outcry in 2001.

See Contact Addresses for further tourist information.

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Communications

Telephone

Country code: 93. There is generally a severe shortage of lines for operator-connected international calls.

Mobile Telephone

There is coverage in cities such as Kabul and Herat, and in other small pockets throughout the country.

Internet

The first public Internet service opened in Kabul in late 2003, and several post offices have since been fitted with Internet connections.

Media

Afghanistan's media were seriously restricted under Taleban rule. In late 2001, Radio Afghanistan returned to the air in Kabul after the Taleban deserted the capital. One of the first signs of change was the music broadcast over Radio Afghanistan for the first time in five years. Days later, Kabul TV was back on the air, with a woman presenting the news.
Afghanistan's newly-invigorated press enjoys freedom of expression, although print runs are small. There is a small band of private radio and TV stations. A law bans media criticism of Islam and other religions.

Press

• Hewad and Anis are two government-sponsored daily newspapers.
• Kabul Times is an official, English-language newspaper.
• Kabul Weekly is a private, English-language publication.

TV

• Afghanistan Television is a state-run broadcaster.
• Balkh TV broadcasts from Mazar-e-Sharif.
• Aina TV is a private broadcaster.
• Tolu TV is a Kabul-based private channel.

Radio

• Radio Afghanistan is a state-run radio station.
• Radio Khilid Kabul (RKK) is an FM station set up by NGOs.
• Arman FM is a private FM network, in Kabul and other cities.
• Azad Afghan Radio is a private station in Kandahar.
• Taleban radio re-emerged in April 2005.
• Foreign radio stations on the air in Kabul include BBC, Radio France Internationale and Deutsche Welle.
• USA-funded stations include Radio Free Afghanistan, which uses the name Azadi Radio, and the Voice of America, which brands its Dari and Pashto broadcasts as Radio Ashna ('Friend').

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Getting There

Getting There by Air

The national airline is Ariana Afghan Airlines (FG) (tel: (2) 200 274; website: www.flyariana.com). There is a United Nations presence in the country, with aid mission flights in operation. For further information, consult a local embassy or the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (website: www.fco.gov.uk).

Currently, the British government advises against its employees (and therefore all travellers should take note) travelling to Afghanistan on Ariana Afghan Airlines or Kam Air due to suspected safety concerns that have not yet been fully addressed and assessed.

Main Airports

Kabul Airport (KBL) is 16km (10 miles) from the city. The airport was largely destroyed during the conflict at the end of 2001 but has now re-opened for limited international commercial flights as well as military and aid flights. To/from the airport: Taxis are available to the city centre (journey time - 30 minutes). Facilities: Bank, bar and restaurant.

Departure Tax

AFN200. Children under two years of age are exempt.

Getting There by Road

Overland travel is currently very dangerous in some parts of the country, with rural roads often unpaved, and the official advice is that it should be avoided. Prior to US bombing, buses used to operate along the Asia Highway, which links Afghanistan to Iran and Pakistan. There were also good road links from Mazar-i-Sharif and Herat to the countries in the north. However, 80% of all roads and bridges were destroyed in the 2001 conflict and repairing the damage remains a slow process.

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Getting Around

Getting Around by Air

The national carrier is Ariana Afghan Airways (tel: (2) 100 274; website: www.flyariana.com), based at Kabul airport (tel: (2) 300 016).

Kam Air (tel: (2) 301 753; website: www.flykamair.com) also operates local routes between Kabul and outlying cities such as Herat.

Getting Around by Road

Traffic drives on the right. Prior to the 2001 conflict, there were over 22,000km (13,000 miles) of roads, some of which were paved. This network has largely been destroyed, although the Kabul-Kandahar highway and the Kandahar-Herat highway have been restored.

Documentation: International Driving Permit required.

Getting Around Towns and Cities

Buses, trolleybuses and taxis used to operate in Kabul but often proved unreliable. Since the 2001 conflict, some services have resumed, but are less reliable than ever due to the extensive infrastructure and vehicle destruction incurred.

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Climate

Although occupying the same latitudes as South-Central USA, the mountainous nature of much of Afghanistan produces a far colder climate. Being landlocked, there are considerable differences in temperature between summer and winter, and day and night in lowland regions and in the valleys. The southern lowlands have intensely hot summers and harsh winters.

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Map

Afghanistan Travel Guide - Travel Advice

Travellers are strongly advised against all but essential travel to Kabul and against all travel to the provinces of Farah, Nimroz, Helmand, Kandahar, Uruzgan, Zabol, Paktika, Khost, Nangarhar, Ghazni, Nuristan, Laghman, Balkh and Kunar. Travellers should only consider travel to other provinces if they have strong commercial or professional reasons to do so.

There is a high threat of terrorism in Afghanistan. Specific methods of attack are evolving and increasing in sophistication. There continues to be a high threat from vehicle-borne suicide bombers in Kabul and other urban areas.

On 14 January 2008, terrorists carried out an attack at the Serena Hotel. Reports indicate that at least six people were killed and many more wounded. Foreign nationals were amongst the dead and the wounded. On 27 November 2007, in Kabul, a suicide bomber in a vehicle killed himself and one civilian in an attack targeting a foreign military convoy in central Kabul. Several people were also wounded in the blast. A suicide bomber detonated a bomb on a bus carrying Afghan police in Kabul on 2 October 2007. Reporting indicates that at least 11 people were killed and many more wounded. On 29 September 2007, a man boarded an Afghan army bus and detonated a suicide vest killing some thirty people and injuring more than twenty more. On 17 June 2007, a bomb attack on an Afghan police bus in Kabul killed over 20 people with a similar number injured, reportedly including some civilians.

On 16 June 2007, a suicide bomber in a vehicle attacked a US military convoy to the west of Kabul, killing himself and up to four civilians, injuring five, including a US soldier. On 27 February 2007 a suicide bomb attack took place outside the US military base at Bagram, 50km (31 miles) North of Kabul. Reports indicate that approximately 19 people were killed in the blast.

On 18 August 2007, a German female aid worker was kidnapped at gunpoint from a restaurant in Kabul, the first foreigner to be abducted in Kabul since 2005. The aid worker was freed the following day after a police raid on a house in the outskirts of Kabul. A number of suspected abductors were arrested during the raid. There is a continuing high threat of kidnap to foreign nationals in Kabul.

Travellers are advised to maintain a high level of vigilance and to seek professional security advice on adequate security arrangements. Germany's interior ministry has confirmed that three police officers deployed to Afghanistan in order to protect the German Embassy have been killed, east of Kabul on 15 August 2007. The British embassy has also confirmed that a UK national has been shot dead in the centre of Kabul in a separate incident, also on 15 August 2007.

The security situation remains serious and the threat to Westerners from terrorist or criminal violence remains high. If travelling by road visitors should only travel in fully protected transport, with reputable local drivers and guides.

Travellers who believe that their visit is essential are advised to seek local advice before undertaking their journey. They should review their security arrangements in-country and should seek professional advice on whether they are adequate. Information on specific and urgent threats is circulated via the Warden network within Afghanistan. It is therefore important that visitors register with their embassy in Kabul on arrival.
Travellers are strongly advised to avoid any protests, demonstrations and large gatherings.

Travellers should be aware that there is a widespread danger from mines and unexploded ordnance throughout Afghanistan.

This advice is based on information provided by the Foreign and Commonwealth Office in the UK. It is correct at time of publishing. As the situation can change rapidly, visitors are advised to contact the following organisaions for the latest travel advice:

British Foreign and Commonwealth Office
Tel: 0845 850 2829.
Website: www.fco.gov.uk

US Department of State
Website: http://travel.state.gov/travel